9/15/2019 Baikal Izh 27 Manual Dexterity
BAIKAL AIR RIFLE GUN PISTOL WEAPONS OWNER MANUALS. IZH MP -651 K IZH MP-654 K IZH 46 IZH 46 PISTOL IZH 46M IZH 53 AIR PISTOL IZH 61 IZH 61 AIR RIFLE IZH 61 X MP512 MP513 MP532 MP651K MP654K Included Free with EACH manual purchased is a large selection of free Air Rifle Gun and Air Pistol PDF Books and Targets. Baikal IZH-27.410 Shotgun Over/Under 26' $454 Baikal IZH27 over/under shotgun in 410GA. 26' barrel, 3' chamber. Improved and Full chokes. Single Selective Trigger, Auto Selective Ejectors, Vent Rib, walnut Stock, Blue receiver. Due to irregular shape of package, additional shipping charges may be incurred by UPS.
. Maintenance: Initial Cleaning of Baikal IZH-27 / MP-27 O/U Shotgun. Welcome to PakGuns! We extend a Very Warm Welcome to all our Visitor Friends. Ours is a close knit community whose goals are to educate our Pakistani Brethren in Gun Safety, Promote Information Exchange and Combine our Knowledge for common benefit. This is a website for Sportsmen by Sportsmen!
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AoA Everybody A friend came over to my place asking about the initial cleaning procedure of his newly acquired 'Baikal IZH-27 Over and Under Shotgun'. I thought why not make a tutorial about it so that other esteemed PG members can also benefit from this exercise.
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Here it goes, but first a little disclaimer. The following content is for informational purposes only. The author assumes no responsibility or any liability in case of an injury, accident, loss of life or property that may or may not occur as a direct or indirect result of exercising the information provided below. The reader assumes full responsibility and liability of the foreseen or unforeseen consequences that may or may not occur therefore he/she is advised to proceed with full caution. In other words, if you screw this up, don't blame it on me Since we have that out of the way, lets begin. This time however I have decided to try a slightly different approach.
Instead of writing all the informational material here along with related pictures, let the pictures to do all the talking. If any point needs further explanation, that we'll discuss here on this thread. Kindly do not hesitate in asking any questions. After this exercise you'll find that your gun will not only function more reliably but also more smoothly.
Every time I have done this to a new over and under the first thing that I've found that trigger greatly improves. The gritty-ness/creep in the trigger significantly is reduced.
The opening and closing seems to become more fluid. In other words, the gun sort of a turns in to swiss watch. Everything ticks the way it is supposed to. @Abbas Thanks Abbas Bhai. The latex gloves are for handling and cleaning of the work piece after it has been sprayed with CLP. I always recommend them because CLP/lubricants/gun cleaning solutions might have solvents in them that can enter into the blood stream through contact via skin.
Therefore it is always advised to used latex gloves whenever handling such chemicals. Thing with latex gloves is that they are air tight and inside your hands sweat alot. Therefore I tend to minimize the discomfort by only wearing them when i'm actually handling chemicals or chemical drenched work pieces.
Since the aerosol can directs the blast in a focused area therefore I was in no danger of contacting the chemicals therefore I chose not wear gloves for this part. I did however wear them when I scrubbed it with a tooth brush. And you are absolutely right, the best practice should have been that I wear gloves the whole time during this exercise. About cleaning of the barrel. Abbas Bhai, that is probably the most easiest part in the initial cleaning of an over and under shotgun. All you need is a pull-through or a cleaning rod.
Some patches (no solvent necessary as it is a new shotgun) and just run it a couple of time through the bore and you are good to go. I will however start a new thread on cleaning a shotgun barrel that has just been fired.
I'm thinking two processes at the same time. Cleaning a barrel with a round count of 100 rounds (less messy operation) and a barrel with a round count of 1000 (a little tricky, slightly more messy). @alinawaz Bro, CLP is infact a 'cleaner, lubricant and a preservative' all rolled into one.
The purpose of a CLP is to do all these jobs in a single application. A dedicated lubricant (without any solvents) is by far a much better option if lubrication is a primary concern which is not the case here. A shotgun's (o/u or sxs) internals do not require that much of a lubrication to begin with as they do not face the high levels of load, stress, friction, speed and heat typically associated with semiautomatic firearms such as handguns or autoloader shotguns. Therefore in my humble opinion, all you need is a good quality preservative for rust protection. Lubrication here is only a secondary concern. Therefore any CLP is good enough for the job.
Even with a CLP, the application has to be kept to a bare minimum as lubrication is only a secondary objective. With too much lubrication here, one runs the risk of oil seeping into the wood which in the long run can ruin the shotgun's furniture through oil seeping into the wood. @Bilal Malik Bro, Nasa Rusto-Nil is easily available at most hardware/auto parts shops at around PKR 200 per aerosol can. You can also use brunox as well as it is also a more popular and probably a better CLP. In a pinch WD40 is good enough too but for applications where extended period of time is involved WD40 has a tendency to gum-up. @Stigma no need to apply anything to a new stock.
Let it be like that and enjoy till it starts to show some signs of wear and tear then we can resort to some corrective measures. For a new gun, in my humble opinion, there is not much you can do when it comes to furniture. @Starfish Bro, there is nothing much to taking down a shotgun's action (O/U only). Its a relatively simple procedure.
Just unscrew the two screws holding the rubber recoil pad and take the recoil pad off 2. Insert the long flat head screw driver and unscrew the stock bolt. You'll need a really long screw driver for this (minimum 18 inches in length). Unscrewing the stock bolt may require a lot of force. However care must be taken in this step. Objective is to apply force and at the same time making sure that screw driver's head does not slip as it can destroy the stock bolts head/face. Unscrew the screw holding the trigger guard to the buttstock then remove it.
Take out the action/receiver out of the slot where it fits in the buttstock and you are done. Reassemble in reverse order.
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Beretto I notice you have an IZH 46m and was wondering if you think it is a decent target pistol? I am considering getting one but don't know if the premium price is worth it considering there are cheaper pistols for about half the price. If it is a competition quality gun, are there any sight options or are the original sights quite good? I have never had a competition style handgun, only the avanti rifles and just thought I would like to try a good pump handgun so I don't have to use air tanks or co2.
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Thanks for the information. I really like my IZH46M. If it is worth the price, depends on what you want to with it! I have competed with it at the Canadian Grand Prix.
Mine was probably the cheapest pistol there. Still, with more training, the gun could do much better than I did with it. Everyone else were using PCP guns, Probably a must for that level of competition. You do 60 shots, twice, single handed, extended arm. Loading and holding steady this heavy gun gets tiring and you loose accuracy. Top level PCP's start at $1700.00 The Baikal is great for plinking and a little lower level competitions. For me it is a keeper even if I buy a more sophisticated gun!
It is quiet, shoots at 440 to 460 fps, and very accurate, but you must hold it very firmly. The trigger is phenomenal! Please let me know if you have more questions. Good shooting. Congratulations 'watertown', I am sure that you will enjoy it. Took me a while to get used to it.
So here are a few precautions: 1. Very light trigger! Make sure that you don't touch it until you pointing in a safe direction.
The first shots will came as a surprise! The rear sight plate screws are backwards, just like if they are left thread.
Turn clockwise to loosen them. Seals: Read 'canshooter's' post. Replacement seals are hard to find. I suggest you don't try to adjust the trigger until you are really familiar with the pistol. They came ideally set. There are several front and rear sight pieces with different widths, well calculated for different uses. For instance the widest ones give you an excellent bracketing picture for ten meters official targets.
The rear sight is perfectly adjustable by clicks in very small increments. It is very good. I made a peep sight for it and a finer front sight, but eventually went back to the original ones. If you want to use a scope, a red dot, or a lazer, you must use a proper adapter that screws over the barrel. Personally to do shooting with a scope, I use a modified Crossman 1377 so both methodes are covered.
Trying to improve my limited ability, I use open sights all the time. Good shooting. Hi Waterdown, I'd like to show you another opinion about IZH-46M (mine is the same) by B.B. Pelletier The cocking/pump lever swings far forward to cock the action and pump the gun. Such a long lever reduces the effort needed to charge this powerful air pistol. The linkage allows the fulcrum of the lever to slide to the most effective point, thus reducing the force needed to pump the gun. One of the finest single-stroke pistols ever made!
By now you ought to know that the Russians really know how to rifle a barrel. The IZH 61 rifle is legendary, and a lot of you have bought it on my recommendation, alone. I haven't heard from anyone who was not pleased with this rifle.
Well, the IZH 46 pistol is a whole other level of quality up from the model 61 rifle. It's a single-stroke pneumatic pistol that uses an innovative cocking linkage incorporating a sliding fulcrum for the pump. As a result, it is one of the easiest single-strokes to pump, yet also one of the most powerful guns. As a result, this is a pistol that won't tire you during a standard 60-shot men's match or a 40-shot women's match. World-class features! The 27.5cm (just a hair shy of 11') barrel is world-class. No human can shoot as well as this barrel permits, which is true of every world-class target pistol.
The sights are adjustable for width in the front - to go with a choice of rear notches (the notches do not adjust). The sights adjust with click-detent wheels. The sighting plane lies low in the hand - a desirable feature. The trigger adjusts for position, pull weight (second stage only), first-stage travel and overtravel. It breaks cleanly without a hint of creep.
A few detractors. At 40.3 oz., the 46 is several ounces heavier than any of today's world-class 10-meter pistols. The grips are smooth wood and not very adjustable. All that adjusts is the palm shelf, where the top 10-meter pistol grips also adjust for rake (forward angle), cant (sideways angle) and rotation (forcing the wrist to rotate around to the side to align the sights). These things help a shooter adjust a pistol that will lock in place when the shooter assumes the correct position.
The finest pistols have a rear sight notch that adjusts infinitely through a range of widths. The best triggers also have trigger blade rotation, cant angle and the ability to dial a portion of the mandated 500-gram pull weight into the first stage. And, the dry-fire feature on the 46 is a little hokey. Dry Fire A target pistol has to have a dry-fire feature because 2/3 to 4/5 of all shots a competitor shoots will be dry. It's part of the training to learn the trigger and to grow accustomed to the balance of the pistol. When I am competing, I can get into my stance, which never changes during the match, then pick up my pistol and fire without sighting. If you were to blindfold me, I'd still shoot a credible score because my arm knows where the pistol needs to be, and my feet keep the gun centered on the bull.
That comes from many hours of practice. But the dry-fire feature on the 46 requires you to cock the action by lifting up on the breech cover, then push it closed to the locked position for every shot. Other 10-meter pistols are very light and smooth in dry-fire.
The 46 fights you every step of the way. On top of that, when the trigger does break, it doesn't feel the same as when the gun shoots - which is the kiss of death for a dry-fire feature!
The dry fire feature is engaged by lifting the breech cover until the gun is cocked, then returning it to the lowered position. The 46M is powerful!
I own a standard model 46, which may not be available any longer. The 46M that replaced it has a longer pump stroke for higher pressures that deliver about 50 to 70 f.p.s. Higher velocity with target pellets. Side-by-side, you can tell the M model is a trifle harder to pump. When it's by itself, you'll never notice the difference. I would love to trade up to an M, even though my 8-year-old model 46 still functions fine.
My 46 gets about 430 f.p.s. With RWS R-10 Match Pellets (light).
A 46M will get 480 to 500 f.p.s. With the same pellet. This is a super bargain! When the IZH 46 first came to the U.S., it was imported by hobbyist businesses that knew nothing about the American airgun market. They put a price of $650 on it, making it close to the same price as FWB and Walther guns that already had established reputations and credentials at the world cup level.
There was no rationale for this 'strategy,' which blew up in the faces of the early importers. Within 12 months, they were gone, and a second wave of vendors tried to see how cheaply they could sell them. Whatever dignity the 46 might have had was destroyed by them. Then, EAA began importing most of the IZH/Baikal line, including firearms. The market slowly straightened itself out to what we see today. The low price at which you can purchase this outstanding target pistol will someday be called 'The Golden Age of Affordable Airguns' by shooters who missed out. Maintenance first A ton of rumors have been written about how the seals in the 46 are somehow weak.
Nothing could be further from the truth, but when kitchen-table hobby airgunsmiths open one up, they find a level of complexity they weren't anticipating. You don't change the seal to get a 46 shooting. You simply pump it - the right way! Getting them working again I have taken non-working guns and, through simple lubrication with Crosman Pellgunoil, gotten them shooting at or above the rated velocity in about 30 minutes. After watching me pump and shoot their guns repeatedly until they worked, the members of my club stopped having problems with their pistols. All you have to do is lubricate and exercise the seals until they're flexible once more. I have to do the same thing with my own pistol every time I start shooting it again, because it sits around for 12 months at a time without being shot.
What kind of oil did I use? Crosman Pellgunoil! Will the synthetic oil your brother-in-law's company uses to lubricate swimming pool heater pumps work as a substitute? Who the heck knows.
But, Pellgunoil works every time. Storing the gun Never store the pistol with the breech closed. Always leave tension off the breech seal, which is the most sensitive seal on the gun. My own gun is 11 years old, has fired thousands of shots and still works well, because I never stored it with the breech closed. The IZH 46 is a great starter 10-meter pistol, as long as you can handle the weight. If you need custom grips you can find them here: bordam.
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